Endurance Myths Busted with Coach Cam Hartley & Maddy Cope Artwork

Lattice Training Podcast

Hosted by Lattice Training - the world's leading climbing coaching and training company - this podcast features discussions and interviews with many of the planet's best climbers and coaches. We delve into the details of what works and what doesn't when it comes to training, performance and recovery. Whether you're just starting out climbing, or a professional athlete, there is an incredible depth of knowledge throughout the episodes! For further support and knowledge please check out Lattice 365, our exclusive membership group.

All Episodes

Lattice Training Podcast

Endurance Myths Busted with Coach Cam Hartley & Maddy Cope

November 30, 2024 • Lattice Training • Season 10 • Episode 3

In this episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, Coach Cam joins Maddy Cope to explore the ins and outs of endurance training for climbers, setting the record straight on common myths and highlighting what really works. With expertise spanning climbing physiology and performance, Cam and Maddy dive into how climbers can strategically improve endurance, whether through low-intensity steady state (LISS) training or high-intensity interval training (HIIT). Together, they discuss the importance of energy systems, the right mix of aerobic and anaerobic conditioning, and how climbers can self-experiment to personalize their training for maximum results.

Cam also introduces his structured, step-by-step self-experimentation process to help climbers hone their endurance training over time. With insights into recovery, progressive overload, and energy efficiency, this episode is packed with practical advice for climbers at every level.

Key Takeaways:

Endurance training benefits both boulderers and sport climbers
LISS vs. HIIT: How each impacts energy systems and performance
Essential recovery strategies for improving endurance
Why personalized, progressive training matters more than high-intensity alone
Practical tips for tracking, testing, and evaluating training effectiveness

Whether you’re new to climbing or looking to break through a plateau, this episode equips you with the knowledge and tools to take your endurance training to the next level!

Links mentioned in the episode:
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/329814457_The_determination_of_finger_flexor_critical_force_in_rock_climbers
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kwrzgg3jkFQ
https://latticetraining.com/blog/training-series-finger-strength/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QeJc34LZIWI&t=800s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EY3XA7e-pw&t=645s

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Maddy Cope (00:00)
you're going to do endurance training, you must be getting hideously pumped. Otherwise you're not training and it's not worthwhile. Well, I think that comes back to stressing the metabolic systems and going, well,

what am I trying to get out of my session? And if you're trying to improve your recovery, then my argument would be, well, why aren't you targeting that part of your physiology? And to best do that, you want to the type one muscle fibers. And by definition, zone two training the maximal expression of...

type one muscle fibers is to work below the aerobic threshold or at the aerobic threshold and that's very low intensity. So you shouldn't be feeling pumped. Yeah. Nice. Yeah.